Rejina Pyo, Alighieri and Halpern Among Six Designers Shortlisted for BFC and Vogue Designer Fashion Fund

LONDON — Alighieri, Charles Jeffrey Loverboy, David Koma, Halpern, Métier and Rejina Pyo are the six brands to be shortlisted for the British Fashion Council and Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2020. The winner will receive a cash prize of 200,000 pounds and a year’s worth of mentoring.
The winner will be revealed in May and the judging panel this year includes Edward Enninful, editor in chief of British Vogue; Caroline Rush, chief executive officer of the BFC; Paul Smith; Maria Hatzistefanis, founder of Rodial, and Natalie Kingham, buying director of Matchesfashion.
“The shortlisted designers have all demonstrated immense skill and business acumen to date,” said Enninful, while Rush added that “it is a very exciting lineup that shows the breadth of talent we have in the U.K.”
The shortlisted designers will take part in a mentoring program with the BFC’s business development team where they will have access to industry experts on areas such as business strategy, merchandising and international growth.
Last year, designer Grace Wales Bonner was the winner, while past recipients include Molly Goddard, Christopher Kane and Erdem.

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Hong Kong Designers Look to Open U.S. Stores

Fashion Hong Kong designers wore optimistic faces as their collective looks for fall/winter 2020 walked the runway at Manhattan’s Spring Studios. If they were feeling anxious over the coronavirus, they showed no signs. More concerning to the designers was the state of retail in the U.S. Designers came to New York Fashion Week to open doors — both at department and specialty stores, and their own boutiques. They quickly learned that the fashion and retail industries are in the throes of convulsive change with generational shifts in consumer shopping behavior.

Harrison Wong’s Fashion Hong Kong runway during New York Fashion Week: The Shows. 
Getty Images for NYFW: The Shows

“This is our third time here,” said Lary Cheung, who with Yi Chan designs Heaven Please. “In New York, there are more and more young brands coming. We have three stores in Hong Kong. Brands need ideas, not only with their stores, not only by their clothes, but also their site. In Hong Kong, we have our shops and we make installations at our shops to disseminate ideas.
“Having three stores is very important,” Cheung added. “We’re always looking for somewhere to have a store in New York, really. Yeah, we have an online shop,

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Designers Return to Showing, Selling Twice Year — and It Makes Sense

LONDON — The endless fashion week cycle and the physical waste it generates — between samples produced, runway show costs, plane tickets purchased, and time spent to-ing and fro-ing to showrooms — is old news. Everyone realizes it has to stop, but few are brave enough to make big changes in an inherently wasteful industry.
Designers, particularly smaller, independent brands with budgets to manage, are slowly starting to address the issue by showing two large collections a year, that can then be divided into multiple drops. This is particularly relevant for accessories, as the brands don’t have to stage fashion shows or participate as actively as their rtw-focused counterparts.
They are finding that producing two comprehensive pre-collections — and hosting showrooms during the January and June pre-collection markets — makes a lot more sense.
“Most retailers allocate 70 percent of their budget to pre-collections, which makes designing a whole new collection for ‘main’ wasteful in sample production costs,” said Estelle Orilland, who recently founded the handbag label Stee Atelier and who previously worked for the likes of Chloé, Stella McCartney and Marni as an accessories designer.
“Encouraging retailers to make two bigger orders a year instead of four smaller orders cuts delivery costs, and therefore emissions,

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Movin’ On Up: Europe’s Designers Turn to Tailoring, but Not Dad Style

LONDON — Get smart.
That’s what designers, brands and consumers want. Whether they’re fighting their way to work on public transportation, readying for a wedding, or taking the spaniel for a stroll, today’s men are looking for smart, tailored pieces they can wear with the hoodies, tracksuits and sneakers already brimming from their drawers and closets.
For fall, London designer Martine Rose said she’s taken “real formalwear and thrown it on its head. So we have ruffled prom shirts in really oversize silhouettes, and we’ve done tailoring — but in latex. Actually, the punks were really quite smart if you think of Joe Strummer and even Johnny Rotten — they used to wear tailoring a lot.”
Rose said there is definitely an “uptake in tailoring, but not necessarily to look smart. It is not how your dad would wear tailoring, but how you would wear a tailored jacket with a tracksuit bottom or something. There really is this move toward tailoring, but it is really taking it and making it your own — integrating it into your wardrobe and not viewing it as a special, formal thing.”
This season, Rose is collaborating with Farah to mark the British brand’s 100th anniversary, and she’s worked

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Liz Hurley wore ‘That Dress’ after snub by designers

Liz Hurley wore “That Dress” after being shunned by other top designers, Hugh Grant has revealed.
Entertainment News – Latest Celebrity & Showbiz News | Sky News

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Trampery Launches Six-Month Sustainability Program for Designers

LONDON — London fashion incubator the Trampery has made the environment a top priority with the official launch of its Sustainable Fashion Accelerator program, which is meant to help young labels integrate sustainability into their business models.
Supported by the mayor of London’s Good Growth Fund and Hackney Wick’s Creative Enterprise Zone, the Trampery chose Steven Tai Studio, Sabinna, We Are Rewritten, Lara Intimates, Leticia Credidio, Sarah Baily and Been London to be part of the first cohort of labels to test the six-month program.
“So far, it’s been great. The community aspect and support system is key here,” said designer Sabinna Rachimova of Sabinna. “As a founder you feel so lonely sometimes, especially when you scale and grow. There’s always some new challenge that pops up and the Sustainable Fashion Accelerator actually answered a lot of questions I had.”
She was speaking at the launch event on Tuesday at one of the Trampery’s buildings in Fish Island Village — in the outer reaches of East London. Members of the industry toasted to the success of the new program.
“The program gave us the confidence to start approaching the business in a holistic manner. The seminars breeds a mind-set with sustainability in the forefront of everything

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Rodarte Designers Talk Cole Haan Collaboration for Holiday

Rodarte designers Kate and Laura Mulleavy joined their friend director-actress Gia Coppola at The Wing in West Hollywood on Wednesday night to celebrate their latest collection of shoes and bags for Cole Haan.
Their conversation ran the gamut from the Los Angeles designers’ beginnings (after the sisters sketched their first clothes at ages eight and nine, their mother, Victoria said, “It’s obvious you are really influenced by Bob Mackie”), to their aspirations to make another film, and someday design wallpaper and have a cooking show.
In stores now, their romantic-looking accessories collection includes metallic gold, soft rose and optic white booties, sneakers, bucket and circle bags with perforated heart motifs or studding details, after their fall 2019 runway.
“The collection incorporates our personality as designers and uses the technology they have to make shoes more comfortable,” Laura explained. “We had our own selfish reasons, too,” she added of the collaboration, which started for fall, with heels they made “as comfortable as tennis shoes” so they could wear them themselves.

Gia Coppola with Kate and Laura Mulleavy. 
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The designers shared their best piece of advice, which came courtesy of Anna Wintour: She said, “It’s obvious what you do is very personal, keep it that way,”

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New Designers Spring 2020: Future Femme

A key takeaway from spring was the rise of emerging talent — namely brands advocating for a new take on what’s feminine and cool. Across the globe, young brands took the runway with clear, distinct points of view alongside their new collections. In New York, one-year-old label Commission melded nostalgia with quirky charm; in Milan, brands Colville, Plan C and Act N.1 unveiled exciting and different takes on femininity, and in Paris, Kwaidan Editions, Coperni and Françoise proposed a new cool. Here, meet these seven designers to watch.
MILAN

Colville dress. Mounser earring. 
Lenne Chai/WWD

Brand: Colville
Designers: Lucinda Chambers, Molly Molloy and Kristin Forss.
Key pieces for spring: The printed dresses define the conceptual and feminine nature within the collection: bright, bold, fearless, colorful.
Brand background: The designers all met 15 years ago at Marni: Forss worked on men’s wear and Chambers and Molloy on women’s wear. They launched Colville in 2018 to continue their working relationship and creative collaboration beyond Marni.
Brand icons: “We are surrounded by amazing people who have become our mentors and influencers, friends, colleagues and each other. We involve friends to work and collaborate with us, we are building a Colville community, the collection isn’t just one voice and not even three

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Tresemmé Teams With Designers to Tackle Fashion’s Gender Leadership Gap

Tresemmé, the longtime official hair sponsor of New York Fashion Week, is taking steps to make its relationship with the shows a more meaningful one.
The Unilever-owned, mass market hair brand has teamed with fashion designers and Vital Voices Global Partnership to launch its #WomenLeadTheWay pledge, a commitment to help advance women in the fashion industry into leadership positions. Co-signed by designers and fashion labels such as Rebecca Minkoff, Jason Wu, Cushnie, Jonathan Simkhai and Studio One Eighty Nine, the announcement will be made public in a full-page ad in The New York Times on Sept. 5, the first official day of NYFW, WWD has learned.
The brand hopes to set an example by establishing and funding its own formal mentorship program within Unilever.
“As the official hair-care sponsor of New York Fashion Week for the past two decades, we want to use this platform as a way to make a change in the fashion and beauty industries,” said Jessica Grigoriou, brand engagement director for Tresemmé, noting the brand “prioritizes” partnering with hairstylists, designers and influencers “who are committed to supporting women on and off the runways” during fashion week.”
“We’ve always been a brand that supports women so we understand the impact women

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Designers & Agents Trade Show Founder Pivots to Cannabis With The Plant Lore Agency

After more than three decades in the fashion industry, most notably as the cofounder of the Designers & Agents trade show, Barbara Kramer is pivoting to cannabis.
Kramer has opened The Plant Lore, a full-service agency offering branding and product development, sales representation and retail support. Based in Los Angeles, she and her team are representing 10 high-end brands making CBD-infused products, including CBD + Nature (skincare); Gron (beauty and confections); Hello Goldie (tea); Mimoi (color face foundation with SPF); Ondo (tinctures), and Beboe (CBD vape pens). They have partnered with Wunderlich Kaplan Communications to offer brands public relations support.
“I have always been interested in coloring outside the lines,” said Kramer, whose entrepreneurial spirit has moved her from New York to L.A. several times, while she was working as a showroom owner and sales agent for such fashion brands as Tocca, Jean Paul Gaultier and Petit Bateau. She and Ed Mandelbaum started D&A in 1996, focusing on the advanced contemporary category, and expanded the fair beyond New York and L.A. to Paris and Tokyo. Over the years, she’s produced runway shows, collaborated with the CFDA on events and been a buyer for Tootsie Plohound shoe stores. Three years ago, when she started

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Camera Nazionale della Moda Brings Emerging Fashion Designers to New York

The younger face of Italian fashion will be on display with a special one-day exhibition on Friday at New York’s High Line landmark.
Organized by the Italian fashion chamber’s Camera Club initiative aimed at promoting up-and-coming labels, the exhibit, called “Borders: A Flash of New Italian Fashion,” collects the signature pieces — to be showcased on biodegradable mannequins produced by Bonaveri — of four Italian emerging brands, including M1992, Magliano, United Standard and Vitelli Maglieria Italiana.
The outfits will be immersed into an engaging environment of video projections, tubes, neon and LED lights. In particular, the exhibit will include a video shot in Apulia by emerging film director Francesco Petroni, as well as audio installations by United Standard’s Giorgio Di Salvo, Vitelli Maglieria Italiana’s Mauro Simionato and M1992’s Dorian Stefano Tarantini — all of them dividing their time between fashion and music.
“When the Consulate General of Italy and the Italian Trade Commission proposed we organize something in New York, we immediately had the idea to do something disruptive, different from what people might have expected,” said Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana president Carlo Capasa. “We wanted to showcase a different face of Italy, young and fresh, which could give an idea of

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Fall Style Advice from the Designers of Want Les Essentiels

Plus, a tour of the brand’s new NYC boutique.

Style – Esquire

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Donna Karan and Trudie Styler to Chat About the Designer’s New Book

Donna Karan will be sitting down with Trudie Styler to discuss the fashion designer’s new book, “My Journey.” The conversation will take place at the 92nd Street Y on Oct. 15 at 7:30 p.m.
In her book (Ballantine Books, $ 30), which will be published Oct. 13, Karan shares her life story, including intimate and candid stories of her difficult childhood, her five decades working on Seventh Avenue, her two marriages, motherhood and her spiritual journey over the last 20 years, as well as her departure from her namesake label last June.
“Sting [Styler’s husband] and I were both born on the same day, Oct. 2, so we have a lot in common,” said Karan.
Tickets can be purchased through the 92nd Street Y Web site.

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Kanye’s Decision to Show Disrupts Designers’ Plans

Kanye West’s show, a last-minute addition to New York Fashion Week on Wednesday, Sept. 16 at noon, is causing headaches for at least one fashion designer. Anne Bowen, who planned to launch her new streetwear collection, Nomad VII by Anne Bowen, at the exact same time, is up in arms and scrambling to reschedule.
Another headache: Naeem Khan is also scheduled to show in Kayne’s new time slot.
Bowen told WWD: “We have been prepping for a year for this at considerable financial, labor and commitment cost to our company. Our show date has been scheduled for months and has been on the Fashion Calendar for weeks. We went through all the proper channels to make this a reality. And just yesterday we learned that Kanye West is having a show at the same time on the same date as ours.”
“Kanye knows he is a media sensation and it is just not ethical to do this. It’s like we are David and he is Goliath. We have put our heart and soul into our show, and should not be stepped on like this,” continued Bowen.
Consequently, Bowen said she has to move her show date to Thursday, Sept. 17 at 12:30 at the

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The Sophomores: Novice Designers Talk About Their Return to NYFW

Three designers who launched their collections at New York Fashion Week in February — Gabriela Hearst, Ji Oh and Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock, the husband-and-wife team behind Brock Collection — discuss what they learned from their first experience and what they changed for their second act.
WWD: What was the most exciting part of planning your first NYFW presentation last season?
Gabriela Hearst: It was our launch season and we’d been conceptualizing the project for more than two years, so it had been a long journey to get there. Only a few trusted key people had seen the collection so we were very excited to finally show it.
Ji Oh: The most exciting part for me was the casting. Finding the right face and the right attitude isn’t so easy, but still very fun. When a girl comes in and tries my clothes on and looks great, nothing makes me happier.
Laura Vassar and Kristopher Brock: Seeing the world we dreamt of come together was the most exciting part. The days before our presentation were our favorite — the styling, casting, hair and makeup tests, and set design.
 
WWD: What was the most stressful or frustrating part?
G.H.: As the debut season was a very personal collection,

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Nicaragua’s Young Designers Eye Expansion

MANAGUA, Nicaragua — Nicaraguan emerging designers Shantall Lacayo and Ana Alexandra Velazquez are aiming to tap overseas markets by showing at Paris’ Who’s Next in September.
Lacayo, who has sales of $ 80,000 a year, hopes to open 12 points of sale over the next three to five years, with tentative plans to market in Paris, Dubai, Miami, Los Angeles and New York.
In the near-term, she hopes to open doors in Honduras and El Salvador to take her count beyond her current four points of sale in Nicaragua and Panama. Further into the future, she hopes to enter the U.S. and Europe.
“I would love to find an agent to represent me in Paris and one day sell in Bloomingdale’s or Saks [Fifth Avenue],” said Lacayo, who also helps direct the Nicaragua Diseña trade fair, which has an expanding fashion wing that also showcases other design talents.
Lacayo, who was second finalist in the 2010 edition of “Project Runway Latin America,” hopes her spring 2016 will attract attention at Porte de Versailles.
Dubbed “Gypsy Goddess,” the collection features several embroidered dresses inspired by the Nicaraguan genciana flower and featuring geometric and Cubist prints evoking the Seventies. The most popular item has been a handmade, dark-blue nylon-mesh gown

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Lakme Fashion Week to Showcase 100 Designers

MUMBAI, India — There is even more glitz and party spirit at Lakme Fashion Week as the event continues the 15-year celebrations that began with the LFW summer-resort season last March.
The five-day winter/festive season opened Wednesday featuring 100 designers, a big leap from 84 in March. It is being seen as a time to take stock, both of the industry and of the event, which opened with a pre-event show on Tuesday by long-established designer duo Sandeep Khosla and Abu Jani.
The show set the tone for pomp as well as partying with glamorous embroidered evening dresses, a cream and gold color palette and retro music that had the audience foot tapping.
“We have the senior most fashion designers such as Abu Jani and Sandeep Khosla, Ritu Kumar, Tarun Tahiliani, Neeta Lulla, Anita Dongre and then we have the younger designers who are launched with the event. That’s the charm of Lakme Fashion Week,” Saket Dhankar, vice president and head of fashion at IMG Reliance Ltd., said.
The fashion week is organized by IMG Reliance Pvt. Ltd., a venture between Reliance Industries Ltd. and sports marketing and management company IMG Worldwide, in collaboration with beauty brand Lakme, which is a subsidiary of consumer goods

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Designers Highlight Androgyny for Men’s Spring 2016

“Men’s wear” is starting to sound like an antiquated term.
Silk blouses, knit skirts and hip-hugging tunics are all part of the picture for the spring 2016 season, accentuating the ways that men’s collections are becoming more gender fluid than ever.
Designers Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent and Jonathan Anderson were among those flying the flag for a new young style inspired by Millennials — a generation that appears to have cast off gender labels like last season’s Zara duds.
And all this coincides with a moment when the transgender community — thank you, Caitlyn Jenner — is experiencing unprecedented visibility.
“We are living in a transgender moment,” said Riki Wilchins, a transgender activist and author of three books on gender theory. “Gender roles are being challenged, and they’re being challenged in fashion. Fashion isn’t just reflecting it, fashion is helping to lead it, it’s profound and it’s here to stay.”
Even before the U.S. Supreme Court legalized same-sex marriage in June, a revolution was playing out on social media. “I think Millennials are definitely pushing this change. Millennials are much more comfortable with gender nonconformity and gender queerness,” Wilchins said.
Celebrities such as Miley Cyrus, Kristen Stewart and Cara Delevingne are

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8 Breathtaking Wedding Dresses From Two Designers You Need to Watch, Now

Any bride can shop the big-name wedding dress designers, but if you want your aisle style to be unique, you should check out gowns by under-the-radar labels, including two of our new favorites. With gorgeous…


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Everything We Know About Jennifer Aniston and Justin Theroux’s Wedding: Potential Wedding Dress Designers, Celeb Jewelers, and the Funny Guy Who Hosted the Bachelor Party

Since we learned yesterday that Jennifer Aniston and Justin Theroux tied the knot Wednesday night, the details—and the rumors—about their wedding have been flying. Here’s what we’ve heard so far. Stay tuned for updates. The…


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Fashion Flashback: What Top Designers Wore in High School

They wore bell-bottoms wider at the hem than at the waist, shoulder pads a linebacker would envy, glittery butterfly hair clips, fuzzy boas, and, of course, a few “sewed-it-myself” looks. When WWD asked designers — from Tommy Hilfiger and Norma Kamali to Brian Atwood and Pamela Love — to share memories of their back-to-school fashion choices, we discovered some were preppy wannabes and others were fans of grunge, but most were just teens trying to find their own personal style.

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Sara Lundberg Scoops Designers’ Nest Prize at Copenhagen Fashion Week

ROYAL PRIZE: Crown Princess Mary of Denmark wearing Danish label Fonnesbech presented Sara Lundberg with the Designers’ Nest prize.
The talent show and award organized by trade fair Revolver was held Friday afternoon during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
A jury that included London-based designer Peter Jensen, Eyes on Talents’ cofounder Guillaume de Piédoüe and fashion scholar Ane Lunge Jorlen selected the 28-year-old Swedish designer as the winner of the competition.
“She expressed the way we convey emotions today is through emojis, and how fashion has become a new community,” Lunge Jorlen explained.
“Her statement was very strong: fashion turned into a totem, a sculpture,” de Piédoüe said. The co-founder of the online platform for connecting brands with international design talents sees a “good combination of technical skills and creativity among Scandinavian designers.”
Lundberg, who just graduated from at the Swedish Schools of Textiles and cites Rei Kawakubo among her favorite designers, is to start a PhD in fashion design in Vilnius, Lithuania  this fall. “I want to discuss things, and continue to do projects about humanity,” she told WWD.
Lundberg was one of 24 students from eight schools in Nordic countries competing for the prize, valued at 50,000 Danish kroner, or $ 7,310 at current exchange.
Louise Wanggren also from

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London’s Centre for Fashion Enterprise Names Designers to Pioneer Program

YOUNG PIONEERS: The Centre for Fashion Enterprise, a British business incubator, has announced the six London-based designers who will join its New Fashion Pioneer Program, which runs for six months. They are the LVMH Grand Prix scholarship winner Richard Malone; women’s wear designer Min Wu; Lei Sihan of the jewelry brand Lion Studio; the design duo Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe of the sustainable women’s wear label Gyo Yuni Kimchoe; performance activewear designer Charli Cohen, and Fashion East men’s wear designer Grace Wales Bonner.
“These Pioneer designers represent a new crop of talent who are breaking the mold. They redefine what a fashion business is, and illustrate that today’s new designers can explore design, fashion and product from a range of different angles with sufficient talent to lead new markets,” said Wendy Malem, director of the CFE.
“Since we launched our label, we have faced so many difficulties and problems in various areas and the program and the support it provides will be such a huge help to overcome these obstacles and grow as a sustainable business,” said designers Gyo Kim and Yuni Choe. Among the program’s alumni are fashion labels Erdem, Thomas Tait, Marques’Almeida, Mary Katrantzou, Peter Pilotto and Craig Green.

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Stylish Weddings: 50 Simple Ideas To Make From Top Designers

Stylish Weddings: 50 Simple Ideas To Make From Top Designers


Customize your wedding, with beautiful designer-created projects. You''ll find quick, simple, and stunning items to make from each top designer, including invitations, table settings, favors, decorations, and gifts for the bridal party. With six signature themes to choose from, we''ve got the perfect cost-effective idea for your special day. The six designers, and their wedding themes, are:Serena Thompson: Farm Chicks CountryCorey Amaro: French-InspiredHeather Bullard, Romantic & PrettyTiffany Kirchnir-Dixon, Vintage GlamMinna Mercke Schmidt, Organic StyleTracy Schultz, Rustic Elegance
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Middle Eastern Designers Gain Strength in Dubai

DUBAI — In a region known for its affinity for luxury brands, the appetite for regional designers has been slow to develop. But if the latest edition of Dubai’s Fashion Forward is any indication, that mind set is beginning to change.
More than 75 regional buyers turned out for the four-day event, which included 23 runway shows and presentations, panel discussions and showroom events.
“We started Fashion Forward two years ago to heighten awareness for the design talent we have in this market,” said Bong Guerrero, founder of Fashion Forward. “This platform is the starting point and as the industry becomes more mature, the content keeps getting better, buyers are more interested and consumers more aware.”
Shireen El Khatib is a retail executive known as one of the pioneers in retailing in the region, having introduced countless foreign brands into the market since the early Nineties, from Gucci to Giorgio Armani and department stores Bloomingdale’s and Harvey Nichols. Now she is launching an innovative new concept store called Macramé, focused solely on Middle Eastern brands. Slated to open at the end of the year, the store will be the first of its kind, offering a platform to both established and emerging designers across

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Xinfu™Women’s2014 michaelled a bags korss women leather handbag Famous Designers Brand women handbag shoulder bag

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Ruffian Designers to Launch New Line

RUFFIAN DUO TO DEBUT NEW LINE IN L.A.: Designers Brian Wolk and Claude Morais are still in the honeymoon phase of their Los Angeles love affair. Inspired by their recent move from New York, the Ruffian designers will launch a new line called Wolk Morais on April 13, which marks the one-year anniversary of their arrival in Hollywood. Focused on the pre-seasons rather than spring and fall, the line will offer a dressier take that Wolk calls “luxury sportswear with evening elements” meant to be worn year-round. It will be shown in October and April annually. All pieces are sourced and produced in Los Angeles and will retail between $ 795 and $ 4995.
“When we moved here there was a dramatic climate change in our native New York and it gave us a new perspective on the way women dress. The pre-seasons make the most sense because they have the longest shelf life and been most financially successful for our retailers.”
The duo says they moved West to have creative freedom outside of the traditional New York fashion system, and showed Ruffian’s spring 2015 collection at Gavlak Gallery in Hollywood. This time, they’ll debut Wolk Morais at Kohn Gallery, fitting because it was

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Call for NYC Designers to Apply for Design Entrepreneurs NYC 2015

NEW YORK — Design Entrepreneurs NYC, a free, intensive “mini-MBA” program based at the Fashion Institute of Technology that educates emerging New York City-based fashion designers on how to run a successful business, is now accepting applications through April 7.
DENYC offers emerging designers in-depth courses and one-on-one help on marketing, public relations, operations and financial management specifically within the fashion industry. Some $ 150,000 will be awarded to DENYC participants with outstanding business plans to further implement the skills and plans they develop over the course of the program.
DENYC was created through a partnership between the New York City Economic Development Corp. and FIT in 2011, and the fashion industry, led by DENYC founding sponsor G-III Apparel Group, is funding this year’s awards and ensuring the program’s sustainability. Additional funding is coming for the first time from companies such as Calvin Klein, The Doneger Group, YM Fashions and Herman Kay.
In order to apply, emerging designers must have businesses that are based in one of New York City’s five boroughs and have been open for at least one year. The application and additional information are available online at designentrepreneursnyc.com.
Each year, some 200 designers have applied and they’ve selected 35 people for the

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Japanese Designers are Hopeful as Tokyo Fashion Week Begins

TOKYO — As the fashion pack barely catches its collective breath from the conclusion of the Paris shows, Tokyo Fashion Week starts today, with designers here voicing optimism despite the looming challenges of growing their small businesses and a domestic economy that continues to sputter.
Future prospects look mixed. On the one hand, Japan is struggling to climb out of a recession and local consumers remain cautious about spending. On the other, tourists from elsewhere in Asia are flooding the country to take advantage of a weak yen and shop. While most Japanese designers still do the bulk of their business in their home country, the currency factor stands to boost the nation’s fashion exports.
Designers are going to need all the overseas help they can get. Last week [EDS: March 9], Japan revised down its fourth-quarter GDP figures to show that the economy grew at an annualized rate of 1.5 percent in the October to December period — the initial estimate pegged growth at 2.2 percent. Meanwhile, household consumption in January fell 5.1 percent in price-adjusted real terms, indicating that consumers still have not fully recovered from last April’s historic sales tax hike. On a brighter note, consumer confidence in February

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WWD » As Tokyo Fashion Week Begins, Japanese Designers are Hopeful
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Young Designers Vie For LVMH Prize

GETTING THE MESSAGE OUT: Anton Belinskiy’s sweater said it all: “Poor But Cool.” He’s one of 26 young designers who displayed their wares at the headquarters of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton on Wednesday night, all vying for a cash prize of 300,000 euros, or $ 335,560 at current exchange, plus a year of coaching from the luxury group.
There was a mood of camaraderie among the designers, despite the walls separating their stands and all the jockeying for attention as members from the expert panel, who must whittle down the crop to eight finalists, toured the room along with top LVMH brass.
“It’s really exciting to see all these great talents here, and to see all the energy,” said Delphine Arnault, executive vice president of Louis Vuitton and the woman who conceived the prize as a powerful talent scout and advocate for young designers at the luxury giant her family controls. “It’s already great for them and I hope it’ll help their careers.”
The 45 experts have two days to inspect collections and meet designers before casting their vote. Finalists are to face a jury whose members include Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Nicolas Ghesquière, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Riccardo Tisci, Jonathan Anderson and

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The Circuit Designer’s Companion

The Circuit Designer’s Companion


Tim Williams’ ‘Circuit Designer’s Companion’ provides a unique masterclass in practical electronic design that draws on his considerable experience as a consultant and design engineer. As well as introducing key areas of design with insider’s knowledge, Tim focuses on the art of designing circuits so that every production model will perform its specified function and no other unwanted function – reliably over its lifetime. The combination of design alchemy and awareness of commercial and manufacturing factors makes this an essential companion for the professional electronics designer. Topics covered include analog and digital circuits, component types, power supplies and printed circuit board design. The second edition includes new material on microcontrollers, surface mount processes, power semiconductors and interfaces, bringing this classic work up to date for a new generation of designers. This book is a unique masterclass in the design of optimized, reliable electronic circuits. Beyond the lab, it is a guide to electronic design for production, where cost-effective design is imperative. Tips and know-how provide a whole education for the novice, with something to offer the most seasoned professional.

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Remember Your Favorite Fleece From College? Designers Say It’s Time to Bring It Back

altuzarra-fleece

In his fall show, Altuzarra sent models down the runway in evening dresses and skirts styled with what we can most accurately describe as Patagonia-style fleeces. Though the styling was epically amazing, it may have fallen a little short of practical for most of us. That being said, it did nothing to stop us from swooning over each and every piece.

Altuzarra reminded us of the Patagonias of our past that we didn’t even realize we had forgotten about. So, in lieu of a black-tie event fit for the likes of his satin gowns, the winter season is the perfect time to appreciate a great fleece. Cozier than anything you will ever own, your fleece can be rocked everywhere from the ski slopes to the city streets. This winter, I definitely pulled a few of my old fleeces out of storage and—confession time—I even bought an awesome pullover from Crewcuts (seriously, shop some of the larger sizes in the boys’ department and you’ll be surprised what you can find!).

Now, some of you may have already tossed the fleeces of your past, and others are not overly enthusiastic to shell out designer prices for your fleece of choice. For both those reasons and more, we have rounded up 20 of the best fleeces of the season. Grab one before the holidays and cozy up at home with your family and friends!

How do you stay warm through the winter? Do you love the retro fleece trend as much as we do?





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10 Brooklyn Jewelry Designers with Their Own Shops

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Brooklyn jewelry designers have emerged over the past decade or so with a distinct philosophy, fusing the concepts of high-end luxury with low-key presentation. They’ve also shown a gutsy independent streak, which may go a long way in explaining why so many of them also run their own shops. Their retail spaces become extensions of their design aesthetics and ideal environments for people to enjoy their latest works. Many of these shops double as studios, allowing visitors to see firsthand how the pieces on display come into being.

Head over to Strolby to see 10 Brooklyn jewelry designers who run their own shops.
Style – The Huffington Post
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Designers Fountain 84183 Bradley 3 Light Chandelier in Charcoal Finish

Designers Fountain 84183 Bradley 3 Light Chandelier in Charcoal Finish


Taking a leaf out of the Mission design handbook, the Designers Fountain 84183 Bradley 3 Light Chandelier in Charcoal Finish combines clean lines and simple elegance for a look that’s timeless. Delicate art glass is paired with the natural beauty of quarried, hand-cut stone to create shades that diffuse a glow of soft light for atmospheric dining or entertaining, while hand-painted charcoal finish complements both casual and formal settings. A distinctive addition to any upscale foyer or dining space, this handsome chandelier uses three 100-watt incandescent medium base bulbs (not included). About Designers Fountain Headquartered in sunny Los Angeles, Designers Fountain lets you show off your creative side. Indulge yourself and your home with a range of lighting styles, from contemporary to classic, each crafted with care from high-quality materials. Designers Fountain supplies lighting fixtures to over 1,200 authorized North American dealers and sources designs from across the world. Get quality lighting that enhances your home while impressing you with its affordable price… only from Designers Fountain. Mission- or craftsman-style chandelier Charcoal finish; art glass shade Decorative ceiling light for interior use Requires (3) 100W incandescent medium base bulbs (not included) Overall dimensions: 18W x 16.5H inches

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Designers Fountain 81821 Mendocino Flushmount in Forged Sienna Finish

Designers Fountain 81821 Mendocino Flushmount in Forged Sienna Finish


Simple in design, but with the right amount of elegance to complement upscale interiors, the Designers Fountain 81821 Mendocino Flushmount in Forged Sienna Finish will be the right choice for your hallway or any other room of the house. The beautiful forged sienna finish plays up the delicate beauty of the warm amber glaze glass shade, while two 60-watt incandescent medium base bulbs (not included) emit a warm glow that’s both ambient and functional. About Designers Fountain Headquartered in sunny Los Angeles, Designers Fountain lets you show off your creative side. Indulge yourself and your home with a range of lighting styles, from contemporary to classic, each crafted with care from high-quality materials. Designers Fountain supplies lighting fixtures to over 1,200 authorized North American dealers and sources designs from across the world. Get quality lighting that enhances your home while impressing you with its affordable price… only from Designers Fountain. Traditional-style flushmount Forged sienna finish; warm amber glaze shade Decorative ceiling light for interior use Requires (2) 60W incandescent medium base bulbs (not included) Overall dimensions: 14.75W x 8H inches

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How Etsy Changed the Rules & What It Means for Indie Designers

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I’m a conscious consumer. I shop second-hand, I limit my consumption of “stuff,” and I try to keep my purchases local. I believe in voting with my dollars, and I’ve gone so far as to dedicate my career to figuring out what that means.

On occasion, though, when I’m hankering for a new piece of jewelry or a unique gift I can’t find in my local thrift shop, I’ll look to Etsy. If I’m going to dish out the cash on a new item, I know that my purchase has more impact if it goes to the local makers who are working on their craft.

As someone who is directly involved in the maker movement, I’m somewhat embarrassed to say I didn’t pay much attention when Etsy changed its policies last fall. For those of you who don’t know what I’m talking about, CEO Chad Dickerson announced that Etsy sellers could use outside manufacturers to produce their designs. In other words, items sold on Etsy no longer had to be handmade.

It wasn’t until a few months ago, when looking on Etsy for a new watch that I realized the implications of this change.

I had a specific brown, repurposed leather, wrap-watch in mind. I knew the one I wanted was handmade by a seller in Ohio, but I didn’t know his name. Typing in a simple search for “wrap watch” into Etsy, I proceeded to spend nearly an hour sifting through 50+ pages of three-dollar “wrap watches” from China.

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My eyes scanned over page after page of items I would have expected to find in the kiosks of Daytona Beach, not on a website for handmade goods. I sat at my computer with my jaw on the keyboard, wondering what had just happened. When I eventually found what I was looking for I purchased the handmade watch, for significantly more than three dollars, and moved on. I didn’t think much more about the experience after that.

A few months later, I met an Etsy seller through Factory45, the accelerator program I run for designers and makers. Among other reasons, she applied to my program looking for business guidance on restoring her Etsy shop sales.

She recently told me, “Last year my Etsy sales tripled in the spring and then again in the fall, so I figured things were still looking good. But in May, my views dropped off to about one-third of what they were in the previous months and as compared to last year. I thought they just dipped because of the holiday weekend and the nice weather, but in June they did not pick back up.”

She went on to explain that several message boards had popped up about similar drops in traffic for other Etsy sellers. When I went on the site to see for myself I found threads with titles like, “Are most of you feeling the low traffic, views and sales?” “Can Etsy stop letting Chinese factories sell here?” and “Your Stuff: Made in China?” with diplomatic responses from Etsy administrators encouraging the sellers “to take advantage of the downtime.” (Interesting advice when downtime could mean the difference between paying and not paying your rent.)

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Aside from the issue that independent designers are now competing with full-scale production operations, there is the issue of sheer volume — Etsy now has over 1 million shops. When a seller is competing in a sea of 999,999 other shops, the odds aren’t good.

Now that Etsy shoppers have the option of buying from middlemen selling three dollar watches, finding that handmade wrap watch you’re looking for will undoubtedly be more difficult. From the seller’s perspective, no matter how many times they change their “tags,” SEO or refresh their storefront, the traffic just isn’t going to come like it used to.

So what actually happened?

In the fall of 2013, Etsy shifted their loyalty from the maker to the shareholder as it made plans to further scale its business model. How did this change things?

Because Etsy’s policy changes happened at the maker’s expense, many of the people who were once making a living off of their shops are now seeing a fraction of the sales. The difference between Etsy, and let’s say, Wal-Mart just got a whole lot smaller. At the core, Etsy changed its mission. No longer is it a website for makers of one-of-a-kind, original goods. Instead, it has become yet another website for the mass-produced and cheaply made goods that satisfy our insatiable culture of mindless consumption.

So what’s a seller to do?

If you’re an independent designer or maker with an Etsy shop, there are a few ways to try and get your traffic back up.

  • Create a small network of fellow sellers. Etsy offers the “team” feature but going beyond that, find five other sellers who have a similar target market and non-competing products. Work together to promote each other’s shops using your individual social media outlets and outside networks.
  • Narrow down your niche and create very specific tags. “Screen printed t-shirt” just isn’t going to cut it anymore. The competition is too high. Use tags and keywords you know would appeal to your target market and get specific.
  • Guest post on the Etsy blog. The blog run by Etsy is “consumer facing,” meaning the content is written for shoppers. It’s an entire platform where your potential customers could be hanging out. Come up with a few article ideas that would appeal to Etsy shoppers and pitch the editorial team.
  • Move marketing efforts away from Etsy to Pinterest, Instagram and a personal blog. Etsy ads are not going to be as effective as they used to be, so save your money. Focus your marketing efforts on creating compelling content through your social media outlets. Host contests on Pinterest, run giveaways on Instagram and write about the “behind-the-scenes” of your business on your blog.

As someone who supports the manufacturing movement in the USA, I believe that Etsy sellers should be able to scale production when their sales numbers get too high to manage on their own. My issue with Etsy lies in the lack of a discerning gatekeeper.

It comes down to this: the world doesn’t need another eBay. It needs the old Etsy.

Get more business strategy for your Etsy store or small business from Factory45 here.

Photo credit: Etsy
This post was originally published on the BF+DA blog.
Style – The Huffington Post
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The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory: A Guide to Fabrics’ Properties, Characteristics, and Garment-Design Potential

The Fashion Designer’s Textile Directory: A Guide to Fabrics’ Properties, Characteristics, and Garment-Design Potential


This valuable materials directory for professional dressmakers and fashion designers is also a good reference source for students of fashion design, as well as for those who make their own garments. The author points out the best fabrics for creating specific garments, explaining how each fabric’s qualities make it suitable for various items of apparel. Knowing which fabrics can support a structured silhouette is fundamental to fashion design, and this book explains the use of stiff or crisply textured fabrics for tailored garments, as well as soft textured fabrics for rounded forms. Ornamentation is also discussed, and includes advice on how to work with different fabrics to create what author Gail Baugh classifies as opulent, simple, and in-between decorative effects. The book’s additional features include: Fiber characteristics charts Weave charts and knit charts with fabric names and photos A glossary of terms and definitions Lists of textile suppliers, online stores, and study resources This directory of textiles and their uses is profusely illustrated with more than 500 color photos.

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Designers Behind New York’s Floating Pool Announce Next Steps

The team behind Plus Pool (+POOL) — that floating swimming hole that promises to be the world’s first water-filtering system of its kind — is inching closer to its goal of creating a massive public pool on the banks of New York’s East River.

In a statement released this week, masterminds Archie Lee Coates IV, Dong-Ping Wong and Jeff Franklin announced they are beginning construction on Float Lab, an experimental version of the planned 164-foot +POOL. They raised the funds for the smaller pool (35 feet by 35 feet, to be exact) through their last Kickstarter endeavor. Set to launch in 2014, it will put their filtration membranes to the test in real-river conditions and run throughout the summer to capture data.

pool kickstarter

Coates and company have partnered with naval architects at Persak & Wurmfeld, filtration textiles and systems specialists at Mackworth, fabricators at Olollo, Hudson River Park’s Pier 40, River Project, Columbia University’s Earth Institute and Riverkeeper to help make the test pool and water quality studies happen, and to keep the public informed of their progress.

Along with Float Lab, +POOL also announced the next phase of it’s “Tile by Tile” campaign, a crowdfunding method that offers supporters the opportunity to purchase a +POOL tile that will become part of the project’s final structure. The team is hoping to raise $ 500,000 this time around to further the larger pool’s design, engineering development, and economic impact report, among other things.

The 164-foot +POOL is still scheduled to open in 2016, if fundraising allows. In total, the pool needs to sell 70,000 tiles to reach its $ 15 million goal — a sum that would make this project the largest publicly and privately funded civic project to date.

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“We look at the High Line as a perfect model [for +POOL funding]. It’s both public and private in the sense that it functions like a public park — it’s free to the public, the public can use it,” Coates explained in an interview with The Huffington Post. “But it’s offering all of this privately, because it’s funded through a non-profit called “Friends of the High Line.” That would be our goal, so that the project is not a burden on the city.”

“We’re not adding problems, but we are creating something that is a full-on part of the civic architecture of the city,” he added.

Read our full interview with Coates here and check out the +POOL website here for more details on the project.
Arts – The Huffington Post
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History of American Jewelry Designers and Manufacturers

History of American Jewelry Designers and Manufacturers


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